Coin-Oid | The Numismatist's Table

Alright! Old Penny here.

Been on the coin stalls since I was 12, helping me old dad on Portobello Road. Whether you've found a coin in the garden, inherited a collection, or just want to know what that thing in your change jar is — bring it over.

Every coin tells a story. Most people just see the price. Let's find the story.

Snap It. Know It. Value It.

Upload a photo of any coin, token, medal or banknote

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Both sides helps! Obverse (head) + reverse (tail) gives the best result.

Did You Know?

- The 1933 UK penny is one of the rarest coins in the world — only 6 or 7 are known to exist
- Roman coins are found in Britain almost every day by metal detectorists
- A US 1794 Flowing Hair silver dollar sold for over $10 million in 2013
- The Royal Mint in Llantrisant, Wales, produces about 5 billion coins a year

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The Numismatist's Library

Knowledge Old Penny picked up over 55 years on the stalls

UK Coinage — A Quick Guide

Pre-Decimal (Before 1971)

12 pence = 1 shilling. 20 shillings = 1 pound. Denominations: farthing (1/4d), halfpenny (1/2d), penny (1d), threepence (3d), sixpence (6d), shilling (1/-), florin (2/-), half crown (2/6), crown (5/-). Look for Victorian, Edwardian and Georgian heads. Silver content pre-1920 is sterling (92.5%), 1920-1946 is 50% silver, after 1947 is cupro-nickel.

Decimal (1971 onwards)

100 new pence = 1 pound. Denominations: 1/2p (withdrawn 1984), 1p, 2p, 5p, 10p, 20p, 50p, 1 pound, 2 pounds. Key dates: 1983 "New Pence" 2p error (should say "Two Pence"), Kew Gardens 50p (2009, mintage only 210,000), undated 20p error (2008).

Key Rarities

1933 penny (pattern only, 6-7 known). 1952 sixpence (extremely scarce). Edward VIII coins (abdication means very few minted). Any coin with a die crack, double strike, or off-centre error is worth checking — errors can be worth far more than the base coin.

Gold Sovereigns

The backbone of British gold. Minted from 1817 to present. Contains 7.32g of 22ct gold. Shield reverse, St George reverse, or commemorative reverse. Key dates: 1817, 1825, 1887 Jubilee head. Even common dates are worth their gold weight plus a premium.

"If you find an old penny in the change, keep it. Not because it's valuable — but because it remembers a world that's gone."

— Old Penny

Coin Grading — Condition Is King

UK Grading Scale

Poor (P) — Barely identifiable. Fair (Fr) — Type identifiable but very worn. Good (G) — Major features visible. Very Good (VG) — Design clear, heavy wear. Fine (F) — Moderate wear, all legends readable. Very Fine (VF) — Light wear on high points. Extremely Fine (EF) — Slight wear only. About Uncirculated (AU) — Trace wear. Uncirculated (UNC) — No wear. FDC (Fleur de Coin) — Perfect, as struck.

Sheldon Scale (US/International)

Numeric 1-70. AG-3, G-4/6, VG-8/10, F-12/15, VF-20/25/30/35, EF-40/45, AU-50/53/55/58, MS-60 through MS-70 (Mint State). Professional grading services (NGC, PCGS, CGS) use this scale and encapsulate ("slab") coins with a grade. Slabbed coins sell for significantly more than raw coins of the same grade.

What Kills Value

CLEANING. Never clean a coin. Not with chemicals, not with a cloth, not with your thumbnail. A cleaned coin can lose 50-90% of its value. Original toning is desirable — it proves the coin hasn't been messed with. Edge knocks, scratches, tooling (re-engraving worn details), and whizzing (wire-brushing to simulate lustre) are all detectable and all destroy value.

Old Penny's Rule

"Hold it by the edges. Use cotton gloves if you can. Never breathe on it, never touch the face. And for the love of all that's holy, if someone offers to 'polish it up for you' — run."

Professional Grading Services

NGC (Numismatic Guaranty Company) — US-based, international standard

PCGS (Professional Coin Grading Service) — US-based, gold standard for US coins

CGS (Coin Grading Service) — UK-based, specialises in British coins

Getting a coin professionally graded costs from about 15-50 quid. Worth it for anything you think might be worth over 100 pounds.

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Common Questions

Things people ask Old Penny every single market day

I found a coin in the garden — is it worth anything?+

Maybe! First rule: DO NOT CLEAN IT. Resist the temptation. Cleaning destroys value. Take a clear photo of both sides in natural light. Check the size (compare to a modern coin), the metal colour, and whether you can read any lettering or see a portrait. Roman coins turn up in UK gardens constantly — even common ones are a brilliant find. If it's over 300 years old and contains precious metal, you must report it under the Treasure Act 1996. Contact your local Finds Liaison Officer (FLO) through the Portable Antiquities Scheme.

How do I know if my coin is real or fake?+

Weight is your first friend. Get a precision scale (0.01g) and check the weight against published specifications. Fakes are almost always the wrong weight. Look for: seam lines around the edge (cast copies), wrong metal colour, weak fine details, a "greasy" feel. The ping test works on silver — a genuine silver coin rings like a bell when balanced on your fingertip and tapped. Chinese forgeries of expensive coins are rampant online. If it seems too good to be true, it is. For valuable coins, get them professionally authenticated by NGC, PCGS, or CGS.

My grandad left me a coin collection — where do I start?+

First — I'm sorry for your loss. Take your time. Don't rush to sell. Photograph everything as it is, don't reorganise. Check albums, envelopes, boxes, drawers — collectors hide things in odd places. Look for: gold coins (sovereigns, guineas), silver crowns, anything in capsules or slabs (professionally graded). Separate the coins roughly by era and country. Don't let anyone pressure you into a quick sale. Auction houses like Spink, Dix Noonan Webb (DNW), and Baldwin's will give free valuations. Local coin dealers can help too, but get at least two opinions.

Should I clean my coins?+

NO. Never. Not ever. Not "just a little bit." Not with vinegar, not with toothpaste, not with Brasso, not with anything. A cleaned coin loses 50-90% of its collector value. That black or brown colour is natural toning — it's proof the coin is genuine and untampered. Collectors want original surfaces. The only exception is if a coin is so encrusted with dirt that you literally cannot identify it — and even then, use only distilled water and a soft brush, very gently. Or better yet, let a professional conservator handle it.

Is my old penny worth anything?+

Most old pennies (Victoria, Edward VII, George V, George VI) are worth 50p to a few pounds in average condition. BUT — some dates are worth serious money. 1869 pennies, 1882H without the H mintmark, 1918KN and 1919KN (Kings Norton mint) can be worth 50-500 pounds depending on condition. The holy grail is the 1933 penny — only a handful exist, worth upwards of 100,000 pounds. Check the date carefully and look at the condition. Even common dates in uncirculated condition can be worth 20-50 pounds.

What's the Treasure Act and do I need to worry about it?+

If you find coins in England, Wales, or Northern Ireland (Scotland has separate law), the Treasure Act 1996 applies. You MUST report finds within 14 days to the coroner if: (1) any metallic object is at least 300 years old and contains at least 10% precious metal, (2) a group of 2+ coins from the same find are at least 300 years old, (3) a group of 10+ coins from the same find are at least 300 years old regardless of metal content. Report to your local Finds Liaison Officer. The process is not scary — they're helpful and you may get a reward equal to the market value if a museum wants to acquire it. Metal detectorists: ALWAYS report. It's the law and it's the right thing to do.

Where's the best place to sell coins?+

Depends on value. For common coins (under 50 quid): eBay is fine, just photograph well, describe accurately, and start auctions at 99p to attract bidders. For mid-range (50-500): specialist dealers or coin fairs give better prices than eBay. For high-value (500+): auction houses. Spink, DNW (Dix Noonan Webb), Baldwin's, and Morton & Eden handle the top end. They charge 15-20% buyer's premium. For bulk common coins: coin fairs or Facebook groups. Never sell gold coins to "cash for gold" shops — they'll give you scrap value, not numismatic value.

How should I store my coins?+

Never use PVC flips — they leach chemicals that damage coins over time (green slime). Use Mylar flips, acid-free cardboard holders (2x2s), or proper capsules. For albums, use ones with inert plastic pages. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Silica gel packets help control humidity. Handle coins by the edges only, ideally with cotton gloves. Keep valuable coins in individual capsules, ideally in an airtight box. And for anything genuinely rare: a safe or safety deposit box.

Are commemorative coins from the Royal Mint worth collecting?+

Mixed bag, honestly. The mass-produced "brilliant uncirculated" coins rarely increase in value — the mintages are too high. Proof coins with lower mintages hold value better but you're paying a premium upfront. The ones that do well are the ones with genuinely low mintages (under 10,000) or those that capture public imagination (like the Kew Gardens 50p). My advice: collect what you love, not what you think will make money. If you enjoy the designs and the history, brilliant. If you're purely investing, there are better options. Circulating commemoratives found in change are always worth keeping though — free collecting!

I want to start collecting — what should I begin with?+

Start with what interests you. If you're in the UK, try completing a set of decimal 50p designs from circulation — it costs nothing and gets you hooked. Or pick a monarch and try to get one of each denomination. Pre-decimal pennies make a great starter collection — they're big, beautiful, affordable, and span from Victoria to Elizabeth II. Get yourself a decent reference book (Spink's Coins of England is the bible), a magnifying glass, and maybe a precision scale. Join a local coin club if there is one. Go to coin fairs — the dealers are usually happy to chat and help beginners. And remember: it's not about how much you spend, it's about how much you learn.

Old Penny's Starter Kit

Gear I actually use and recommend (affiliate links support the village):

Coin Albums Magnifier Loupe Spink Reference Book Precision Scale

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The Collector's Kit

Gear Old Penny uses and trusts. Affiliate links support the village.

Storage & Albums

Proper storage is the difference between a coin holding value and losing it.

Coin Albums & Holders Coin Capsules Mylar Flips (NOT PVC) Storage Boxes

Tools of the Trade

Jeweller's Loupe (30x) Precision Scale (0.01g) UV Light (Fake Detection) Digital Caliper Cotton Handling Gloves

Reference Books

The books Old Penny keeps behind the stall, well-thumbed and indispensable.

Spink's Coins of England (The Bible) Collectors' Coins Great Britain Roman Coins & Their Values Coin Yearbook

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Noisy Brain?

If your head's too loud, your thoughts won't queue up, or you're wondering why everyone else seems to cope and you don't — you might be neurodivergent. AuDHD. ADHD. Autistic. Dyslexic. Something with a long name that just means your brain works differently.

You're not broken. You're not lazy. You might just need the right support.

The person who built this village was diagnosed at 55. Late-diagnosed, self-taught, and now building infrastructure for others like him. If any of this resonates, reach out. WhatsApp is always open.

If you're in crisis: Samaritans 116 123 (UK, free, 24/7)

The Village Code

All Welcome, Be Kind. From seasoned numismatists to kids who found a coin in the garden. Everyone learning together.

Honesty First. About grades, about values, about fakes. If it's worth tuppence, we say tuppence.

Protect the Heritage. Report finds. Respect the Treasure Act. Don't clean the history off a coin.

Teach, Don't Gatekeep. Knowledge shared is knowledge multiplied. Old Penny learned from his dad. Pass it on.

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"World domination through kindness. One ember at a time."

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